The Spring Breeze sweater is an easy introduction to creating your first lace crochet sweater. With delicate wavy edged sleeves this pretty lace sweater gives a feminine look to your Spring and Summer wardrobe while being warm enough for breezy days.
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The peephole chevron crochet stitch is a great introduction to lace stitches as it gives a lovely open structure but does not need any clever crochet skills. As long as you can double crochet you’re going to be professional by the end of the hour :o)
The gorgeous curved edges mean the stitch perfect for scarves, shawls and beanies once you’ve had a chance to practise it to make the Spring Breeze Sweater.
CLICK HERE for my tutorial on Peephole Chevron Crochet Stitch so you can practice before you start.
The Spring Breeze sweater is an easy introduction to trying out your first crochet garment as it is made from simple rectangles that are seamed together.
Are you more of a visual learner?
There’s a Youtube version of the tutorial too!
This pattern is part of a bundle from the Spring Style Blog Hop, you can get 30 patterns at a massive 90% discount – that’s around 28p each!
Sizing For The Spring Breeze Lace Crochet Sweater
This sweater is available in sizes XS (28 inch chest) through to 5XL (60-62 inch chest).
Shoulder to waist is approximately 22 inches (55cm), ease around the bust is approximately 3-4 inches
Instructions are given for the smallest size (XS/S). Minor changes for larger sizes are given in brackets:
- Size XS/S (28-34″chest)
- Size M (36-42″ chest)
- Size L/XL/2XL (44-50″ chest)
- Size 3XL/4XL/5XL (52-62″ chest)
What Materials Do I Need To Crochet My Lace Sweater?
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Worsted Weight yarn – I used Wecrochet.com Comfy Cotton in the shade Vinca.
It’s a light worsted/aran weight cotton and acrylic mix, which gives a lovely loose lace effect with a beautiful drape.
The addition of acrylic helps to soften the yarn and adds such a lovely lustre to the finished fabric.
You can see all the details on the WeCrochet website here. Thanks so much to WeCrochet for supplying the yarn for this project and all of the other gorgeous projects in this Spring Style Bundle
You will need approximately:
- Size XS/S (28-34″chest) Approx 1090 yds/999m
- Size M (36-42″ chest) Approx 1200yds/1100m
- Size L/XL/2XL (44-50″ chest) 1417yds/1295m
- Size 3XL/4XL/5XL (52-62″ chest) 1744yds/1594m
5mm (size G/7) crochet hook depending on your gauge. You can find them in them at Amazon or Lovecrafts
Scissors these ones are a really pretty addition to your crafting essentials bag.
Tapestry needle for weaving in ends. This set is really useful for all of your craft projects and the storage tube ensures they don’t get lost!
If you’re looking for ideas or new tools then check out some of my favourite in my Amazon shop
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Which Stitches Do I Use For My Spring Breeze Lace Crochet Sweater?
This pattern for Peephole Chevron Stitch looks so much for complicated than it really is. As long as you can chain and double crochet you’ll be a prosfessional within the hour.
The great thing about Peephole Chevron stitch compared to other chevron stitches is that there is no increasing and decreasing so if you can count to 10, youve got it!
Do I Need A Gauge Swatch?
Gauge is important to give you an idea of whether your project will be the size you want, especially important with clothing!
I usually recommend making a swatch that measures at least 10 x 10 cm / 4 x 4 inches using the stitch in the pattern the gauge is given for (see below).
Test your yarn against the gauge sizing below or see your yarn information label to check the typical gauge if you want to use an alternative.
Double Crochet = 4 stitches x 7 rows (10×10 cm)
If your swatch is smaller than this then swap to a larger needle, if you have a larger swatch then use a smaller size needle until the required gauge is reached.
I know it’s a step we ALL want to ignore but checking your gauge is a really important habit to get into, as once you progress to more complicated projects it plays an important role in making sure your project is the right size.
Trust me when I say you DON’T want to spend hours creating something beautiful that will only fit your six year old next door neighbour!
Before You Start
Abbreviations:
Ch – chain
ChSp – Chain Space
DC – Double Crochet (US terms)
HDC – Half Double Crochet
SC – Single Crochet (US terms)
SK2 – Skip 2 stitches/Chains
Slst – Slip Stitch
Pattern Notes:
The sweater is worked in four pieces starting with the back & front pieces. Sleeves are made separately and added once the body is complete and shoulders have been seamed together.
If you would like a longer or shorter body then rows can be added to or subtracted from the front and back sections.
All measurements given are unblocked.
Note that measurements are given as exact as possible. Your tension & technique might give variations in the result, but that’s what makes it unique!
Peephole Chevron Stitch is worked in groups of 10 stitches with a block of 5 stitches at each end.
Ch3 at the beginning of the row counts as a stitch
Click here for the Peephole Chevron Stitch Tutorial.
If you prefer a visual tutorial I have a Youtube video too.
How Do I Crochet My Simple Lace Crochet Sweater?
BODY SECTIONS (make 2)
Chain 83 (93, 113, 133). DC into the 4th chain (these first 3 chains count as your first DC). Work 1DC into each of the next 4 chains. You should have a block of 5 DC.
Skip 2 chains and work 1DC into each of the next 4 chains.
Chain 2 (this will be your chain space in the next row).
Work 1DC into each of the next 4 chains.
This completes our first chevron.
Continue working *SK2, 1DC into next 4 chains, ch2, 1DC into next 4 chains* until you have 6 chains left.
Sk2 chains, work 1DC into each of the next 3, work 2 DC into the last chain.
Chain 3 and turn your work
ROW 2-39
Your Ch3 is the first stitch of your 5DC edge block. So to compete this, work 1DC into the base of this stitch then 1 DC into each of the next 3 stitches.
SK2, work 1DC into the next 3 stitches then work 1DC into the Chain Space below:
Chain 2 to create your chain space for the next row then work 1DC into the chain space:
Work 1DC into each of the next 3 stitches:
Work from * to* until you have 6 stitches left
*Sk2, 1DC into next 3 stitches, (1DC into ChSp below, Ch2, 1DC into ChSP below), 1DC into next 3 stitches*.
To complete the row Sk2, work 1DC into the next 3 stitches then work 2DC into the last stitch.
Ch3 and turn your work.
Row 40
Now we need to straighten our top edge for the neckline. Ch1 and turn your work.
Work 1 Slst into the first stitch, 1SC into the 2nd stitch, 1HDC, into the 3rd Stitch, 1DC into each of the next 4 stitches, 1HDC into the 8th stitch then 1SC into the 9th stitch, work 2 Sl St into the chain space to complete.
Continue with *1SC,1HDC,4DC,1HDC,1SC,2Slst (work the Slip stitches into the chain space)* across the top of your work. You should now have a good straight edge for seaming.
SLEEVES (Make 2)
These are created in exactly the same way as the body pieces.
Ch 63 (63, 73, 83) DC into the 4th chain. Work 1DC into each of the next 3 chains. You should have a block of 5 DC.
Skip 2 chains and work 1DC into each of the next 4 chains.
Chain 2 (this will be your chain space in the next row.)
Work 1DC into each of the next 4 chains.
This completes our first chevron.
Continue working *SK2, 1DC into next 4 chains, ch2, 1DC into next 4 chains* until you have 6 chains left. Sk2 chains, work 1DC into each of the 3, work 2 DC into the last chain.
Chain 3 and turn your work
ROW 2-34
Your Ch3 is the first stitch of your 5DC edge block. So to complete this, work 1DC into the base of this stitch then 1 DC into each of the next 3 stitches.
Work from * to* until you have 6 stitches left
*Sk2, 1DC into next 3 stitches, (1DC into ChSp below, Ch2, 1DC into ChSP below), 1DC into next 3 stitches*.
To complete the row Sk2, work 1DC into the next 3 stitches then work 2DC into the last stitch.
Ch3 and turn your work.
Row 35
Now we need to straighten our top edge for the shoulder. Ch1 and turn your work.
Work 1 Slst into the first stitch, 1Ch into the 2nd stitch, 1HDC into the 3rd Stitch, 1DC into each of the next 4 stitches, 1HDC into the 8th stitch then 1SC into the 9th stitch, work 2 Sl St into the chain space to complete.
PUTTING IT ALL TOGETHER
Once you have blocked your finished pieces (because you didn’t think I was going to let you get away without blocking did you?)
Lay your front and back sections together with the right sides facing (this is a reversible stitch so there is no obvious right & wrong sides but one side may be neater!)
Measure 5 inches (6, 8,10 inches) from the left edge and place a pin to mark your neckline. Measure 10 inches (11,12,13 inches) from the pin and mark the other edge of your neckline. Seam the shoulders from the outer corner to the pin on each side.
Open your project so the right side is facing downwards and the seams are facing you. Lay the top straight edge of your sleeve at 90 degrees to the shoulder seam.
Fold the sleeve in half lengthways and mark the fold with a pin. Unfold your sleeve and line the pin with the shoulder seam. Pin and seam the top straight edge of your sleeve to the outer edge of your front/back pieces.
Fold your work in half with the right sides facing (i.e. inside out). Now seam from the wrist to the waist (or the other way if you feel like it!)
Ta da, all done and ready to party!
Don’t forget to send me a photo at [email protected] or tag me on Instagram @kingandeye
I can’t wait to see it!
Don’t forget to grab your bundle with all 33 patterns from the Spring Style Blog Hop.
Click the image to see more details and get yours at 90% off today
Psst that’s only 28p each!!!!
